After a decade in Japantown, an SF sushi legend steps away

When Kiyoshi Hayakawa opened An Japanese Restaurant in Japantown, he knew it would be his last stop. 

Having already spent 45 years in the sushi business, Hayakawa had grown tired of the bustle and grind of running larger restaurants. At his previous Inner Sunset sushi restaurant, Koo, he oversaw dozens of cooks and waitstaff who helped him run his kitchen like a well-oiled machine for 11 years. 

At An, he sought to do the opposite. This would be his “retirement restaurant,” a place where he could spend his days doing what he loved — making sushi — but in a smaller, more intimate setting. “I was looking for a small place for my retirement,” Hayakawa said. “At big restaurants, there are many employees and lots of things you have to think about. I wanted this to be simple and 100 percent me.” 

A decade later, the time has finally come for Hayakawa to hang up his apron. On Oct. 11, An Japanese Restaurant wrapped up its final dinner service to a counter of longtime customers, many of whom have become friends. The restaurant will reopen on October 24 and operate two days a week on an invite-only basis until further notice.

Hayakawa sprung open the tiny, unassuming 16-seat sushi spot in a quiet corner of the Japan Center Malls in 2015. There were just two workers: himself and his wife, Ayumi. For the last decade, the chef has been serving Edomae-style omakase — seasonal, multicourse meals featuring nigiri made with fish prepared using traditional preservation techniques like aging, curing, and marinating, all intended to let the natural texture and flavor of the fish shine. 

First introduced at Koo, Hayakawa’s signature dish called “Spoonful of Happiness” — two spoons of sweet uni, topped with a quail egg and a sprinkle of tobiko ponzu — earned him a loyal following of regulars who carried over to An, where the dish remained a staple. 

“Since announcing the closure, for the last three weeks we had all regulars almost every single night,” Ayumi said. “Whether they were from the last 20 years, 10 years, or from An, they were all regular customers. It was like a party every night. People would bring drinks and gifts. They’re some of my happiest memories.” 

While Hayakawa cooked, Ayumi handled everything else, from serving customers to social media marketing and more. For Hayakawa, An was always a two-person effort, and he’s adamant that none of it could have been possible without her. Last year, the pair decided to sell the business. 

“Cutting and standing for eight hours is really hard. When you’re younger, not so much, but now leaning over for five hours makes it so I can’t lift my neck, and my back hurts,” Hayakawa said, adding that with age, his once-sharp knife skills and palate have started to slip. “It’s like how in sports, many retire at 32 because they can not catch up with young people. I’m similar. Sixty-eight is a good time to retire.” 

An Japanese Restaurant’s new owners, Daisuke Takiguchi and his wife, Hana Uyu, are ready to pick up where the previous couple left off — literally. 

Like Kiyoshi and Ayumi, Takiguchi will handle kitchen operations while Uyu manages the front of the house. Before purchasing the restaurant, Takiguchi trained in Japanese kitchens for 15 years. After moving to the United States, he spent six years at Napa Valley’s Michelin-starred Kenzo, where he rose to head chef. 

While he settles in, Takiguchi plans on keeping both the menu and design the same. He admits to being nervous, but he hopes that sushi lovers will continue to support An. 

“We’ll change little by little to fit our style,” Takiguchi said. “We’re hoping to bring more customers in and try different things, like maybe opening for lunch or having different set menus. We’re basically trying to expand and grow.”