What’s more San Franciscan than turning an army base into a natural wonderland?
If you haven’t been to the Presidio in while, or if the park is entirely unfamiliar, now is the perfect time to visit. Here are 13 brand new, new-ish and classic spots that help explain why this 2.4 square mile chunk of green at the city’s northern edge—and the rest of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area—drew 15 million visitors last year.
Honor Those Who Served
The San Francisco National Cemetery (opens in new tab) is the final resting place for more than 30,000 servicemembers and their families. There are eight war memorials in the Presidio (opens in new tab), as well, including the WWII West Coast Memorial to the Missing (opens in new tab), the Korean War Memorial (opens in new tab) and the Marine Cemetery Vista (opens in new tab). And the Presidio Pet Cemetery honors the pets and mounts of the armed services who lived at the Presidio over the decades.
Peek at the Tunnel Tops
Though it doesn’t open until July 17, you can peer through the chainlink fence and see the fabulousness that awaits. Stretching from the Visitor Center north to Mason Street, the Tunnel Tops will be the biggest new park area in SF in years, restoring the long-blocked connection between the Main Post and Crissy Field. Until then, use the addition to the Tennessee Hollow Trail (opens in new tab) across the new Quartermaster Reach (opens in new tab) or Halleck Street to pass under/over Presidio Parkway.
Stroll the Trails on Battery Bluff
The ribbon was cut on the Tunnel Tops little sister in April: Battery Bluff is another spectacular new public parkland recovered during the Presidio Parkway project. Trails crisscross the bluff side with viewpoints peppered throughout. The historic army batteries have been restored and coated with a graffiti-resistant coating that seems to be working so far. Though not accessible from the Crissy Field-side, visitors can reach the park on the Presidio Promenade Trail (opens in new tab) or sidewalks from the Main Post.
Fire a Cannon at Fort Point
So… you can’t really fire off any ordnance at this pre-Civil War fortress (opens in new tab). But now that the pandemic has subsided, Fort Point (opens in new tab) is once again open from Thursday to Monday. And if you haven’t been there since your school field trip, it is worth another look. You can wander the floors, peer into the courtyard, marvel at the seven-foot-thick brick walls and head to the roof to get up-close-and-personal with the underside of the Golden Gate. Oh, and the city views are brilliant, too.
Loop Crissy Field
From East Beach to Torpedo Wharf, House of Air to Sports Basement, The Standard’s guide to Crissy Field maps out a long stroll or day-long excursion to San Francisco’s big front yard. Bike, scooter, wander, picnic, run or just plop down on the grass to take in the people-watching and other fabulous views.
Drink Something Warm
Getting a decent cup of coffee to brace yourself against what can be blasting fog has always been a bit challenging in the Presidio, but that is changing. The Warming Hut (opens in new tab) on Crissy Field has reopened with a variety of drinks and snacks. And Equator Coffees took over the Deco-era Round House Cafe (opens in new tab) at the base of the Golden Gate Bridge last year, offering foodie-approved pour-overs and cafe-fare. Thirsty for something colder? Grab a beer on the patio of Presidio Bowl (opens in new tab) for a view across the entire Main Parade Lawn.
Hike Somewhere New
While first-timers never get too much farther than the Golden Gate Promenade (opens in new tab) along Crissy Field, locals know that the trails less taken make all the difference. There are 24 miles of hiking trails (opens in new tab) in the Presidio to keep you busy. A cool summer morning is ideal for taking on the Batteries to Bluffs (opens in new tab)–Sand Ladder (opens in new tab) combo. A favorite cross-park trek takes Mountain Lake Trail (opens in new tab) from the Presidio Gate, around the back of the lake, connects to Lobos Creek Valley Trail and ends at Baker Beach. And the best north-south traverse, the Park Trail (opens in new tab), heads south from the Cavalry Stables through the trees, passing the National Cemetery Overlook (opens in new tab), which comes highly recommended from the Presidio Trust CEO, Jean Fraser.
Play Tourist at the Visitor Center
The Presidio Visitor Center (opens in new tab) reopened last week after more than two years offline. If you’ve not been inside, make it your first stop in the park. Delving into the Presidio’s long and complex history, the center does a great job explaining the history of the human, animal and plant inhabitants of the area with hands-on displays, ranger-led talks, interactive exhibits and one of the best bookstores and gift shops in the city.
Brunch at the Main Post
The longtime Union Square eatery, Colibri Mexican Bistro (opens in new tab), reopened in the Presidio Officer’s Building in June, with both outdoor and indoor seating. (Don’t miss Andy Goldsworthy’s Earth Wall (opens in new tab) on the rear patio wall.) The restaurant joins Presidio Social Club (opens in new tab) and Sessions at the Presidio (opens in new tab) as destination-worthy sit-down restaurants for a post-hike beer or pre-theater meal. (The opening of the Main Post’s Presidio Theatre (opens in new tab) in late 2019 was also missed by many because of the pandemic.)
Rent a Bike
It’s easier than ever to bike around the Presidio. Head to Sports Basement (opens in new tab) in Crissy Field and rent a cruiser or mountain bike, depending on your preference. Or hit the Main Post and grab a Bay Wheels bike-share (opens in new tab) of the basic or electric flavor. Once you’ve got your ride, consider spending a leisurely day cruising the “Around the Park” loop, or check this bike map (opens in new tab) for shorter rides around the park.
Art Walk
A wander in the forests near the Main Post begins and ends with Andy Goldsworthy’s natural creations. Start near the top of Lover’s Lane for a meander with Wood Line (opens in new tab) as it moves down through the trees. Head for the Lucasfilm HQ for a glance at its Yoda Fountain (opens in new tab) and the nearby statue (opens in new tab) honoring the inventor of TV, Philo Farnsworth. From there, consider a stop at the Walt Disney Museum (opens in new tab), a peek at Goldsworthy’s Earth Wall (opens in new tab) behind the Colibri, and a trek back up the Ecology Trail to Goldsworthy’s Spire (opens in new tab).
Watch the Sunset
If Karl (opens in new tab) clears out, there are few places like the Presidio to watch the pelicans swoop in the setting sun. The Golden Gate Overlook (opens in new tab) parking area delivers through-cypress views of the bridge and access to endless views out to the Pacific. Just scramble around and pick your perch on Battery Godfrey (opens in new tab) or Boutelle (opens in new tab). Prefer a sunset with your toes in the chilly San Francisco sand? Baker Beach (opens in new tab) is your spot.
Walk the Golden Gate
Have you done it? Me either. I’m going to do it this year.