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‘This is my church’: Indigenous sunrise gathering draws thousands to Alcatraz

An overhead view of the indigenous sunrise gathering on Alcatraz Island
In a tradition nearly 50 years old, Native American dancers perform on Alcatraz Island as the sun rises on Thanksgiving Day. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard

They lined up by the score in the predawn dark and chill on Pier 33, clutching camping chairs and children, swaddled in blankets woven in tribal patterns, and crowded aboard ferries. Their destination: Alcatraz Island, there to take part in one of San Francisco’s most unique and enduring Thanksgiving Day traditions.

The annual sunrise gathering on Alcatraz carries multiple layers of meaning, according to its organizers, the International Indian Treaty Council. Held on ancestral Ohlone land, it honors the resilience of indigenous peoples in California and around the world. It commemorates the November 1969 takeover of Alcatraz by Native American student activists. And it offers a counter-narrative to the sanitized Thanksgiving story taught to schoolchildren, reminding attendees that the original 1637 event was held to celebrate a massacre of Pequot Indians. 

A Muwekma Ohlone dancer dances during the Sunrise Ceremony on Alcatraz Island on Thursday, Nov. 28, 2024.
A Muwekma Ohlone dancer dances during the Sunrise Ceremony. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
A group of Round Valley dancers performs during the Sunrise Ceremony.
A group of Round Valley dancers performs during the Sunrise Ceremony. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
A child wears a traditional red wooden headdress and necklace, holding a stick-like object against a dark background with feathers visible in the foreground.
A young Muwekma Ohlone dancer rushes to warm up after the first dance of the Sunrise Ceremony. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard

For some, it also served as a focal point for protest of Israel’s war in Gaza and occupation of Palestinian lands, although not to the same extent as last year’s event

“It’s all one cause, you know? It’s just world peace, baby,” said Bay Area resident Frida Ortega. She said she had come to honor her Mexican ancestors as her mother had taught her. “I’m just really here to ground myself,” she said. “That’s why I’m dancing with no shoes on.” 

Many cited intergenerational ties as a motivation for attending. Kathleen Ryan, whose heritage is Indian and Irish, said she had thought about coming for many years. After the recent death of her father, “I made sure I came this year. This is my church.” 

Frida Ortega inspects her feet before her performance with the Mexica dance group.
Frida Ortega inspects her feet before her performance with the Mexica dance group. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
A child with a Free Palestine sign at the indigenous sunrise gathering on Alcatraz Island.
A celebration of indigenous resistance worldwide, the sunrise gathering is a focus for protest of Israel's war in Gaza. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
A person wearing a colorful headdress made of feathers and floral designs stands in profile. Their attire features intricate patterns, and large beaded earrings are visible.
Ysaiya Castano prepares to dance at the Sunrise Ceremony. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard

Lara Kiswani, executive director of the Arab Resource and Organizing Center, had brought her young daughter “to experience this beautiful collective gathering of mourning and honoring resistance and steadfastness of indigenous people everywhere,” she said. “It felt like a really special opportunity this time, one year into the genocide, and also as we are facing a looming fascist government here.” 

The thousands in attendance — organizers expected about 4,000 total — watched performances led off by dancers representing the Muwekma Ohlone. The Yuki Resistance Dancers of the Round Valley Reservation came next; the Mexica dancers, a mixed group made up of multiple tribes, closed out the ceremony with a prayer dance. 

To witness all that, plus a brilliant clear late November sunrise over the Bay, braving the frigid weather was a small price to pay. “We know it’s cold,” said Liz Xochipapalo Amador, a member of the Aztec dance group Calpulli Tonalehqueh. “That’s part of the sacrifice we need to make, an ofrenda. Being with the elements.”

A group of people are outdoors, one with a wide-brimmed hat and eyes closed, raising their hands. A sunny structure and a distant tower are in the background.
Kathleen Ryan, a Northern Mountain Maidu member, prays during the Sunrise Ceremony. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
A hand holds an ornate headpiece with vibrant feathers in red, blue, and orange hues against a light background, capturing a cultural or festive essence.
Dancers hold the headpieces of their regalia above the crowd while getting off the 4:45am ferry to Alcatraz.
| Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard
Julia Arroyo (right) and daughter Guillermina share a moment before their performance with the Mexica dance group during the Sunrise Ceremony on Alcatraz Island.
Julia Arroyo (right) and daughter Guillermina share a moment before their performance with the Mexica dance group. | Source: Michaela Vatcheva for The Standard

Jeff Bercovici can be reached at jbercovici@sfstandard.com