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Food & Drink

Brand new ‘Indo-Tex’ barbecue spot is already drawing lines at Chase Center

Cult barbecue joint Fikscue opens at Thrive City, just in time for the start of the Golden State Valkyries season.

People are gathered inside a restaurant with a menu board above. Staff serve from behind a glass counter. Outside, more people are visible near umbrellas.
The Golden State Valkyries lost their first exhibition game Tuesday, but fans of halal barbecue won. | Source: Chris Behroozian for The Standard

Two hours before the Golden State Valkyries played their first exhibition game Tuesday, newly minted fans of the women’s basketball team excitedly queued up outside Chase Center for the debut. But one corner of the plaza surrounding the arena had an even longer line — not for basketball tickets or merch, but for the first San Francisco location of East Bay cult barbecue joint Fikscue.

Perhaps the only Bay Area restaurant to combine the flavors of Indonesia and Texas, Fikscue has won plaudits since its delivery-only 2020 debut, with the brick-and-mortar location in downtown Alameda routinely attracting wait times of 90 minutes or more since opening in late 2023. 

The image shows two plates of food. One has sliced brisket, sausage, and salad on decorative paper, and the other has rice, chips, greens, and a condiment.
Fikscue's offerings include brisket, jalapeño-cheese sausage, and rujak slaw. | Source: Chris Behroozian for The Standard
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Fikscue’s Thrive City location opened Tuesday in a limited capacity, serving a pared-down version of the mothership’s offerings during the first three Valkyries home games this week. An official grand opening date is TBD. The space — which faces the San Francisco Bay on the upper level of the restaurant and retail plaza, adjacent to Harmonic Brewing — showcases a mural of Garuda bird, Indonesia’s national symbol, wrapped around the kitchen wall.

Slicing slabs of brisket, co-owner Fik Saleh said he’d woken up at 4:30 a.m. after three hours of sleep. He was nonetheless in good spirits. “We have a direct smoker on-site,” he said, nodding to the enormous yellow machine on the patio that allows for faster cooking times and a more expansive menu.

“Not only that, but it’s a full barbecue,” his wife, Reka, said, referring to the spacious set-up. “We have communal tables. And you cannot beat the view.” 

A man in glasses and a black cap with a patch is smiling. Behind him are metal appliances, and his reflection is visible on a glass surface.
Fik Saleh barely slept before the opening but was in high spirits. | Source: Chris Behroozian for The Standard

Fikscue fans flock to Alameda for jalapeño-cheese sausage and dry-rubbed “Dino Ribs” ($38) as well as halal specialties like batagor (vegetarian fried dumplings with peanut sauce, $12) and soto padang (beef noodle soup with brisket bits and a wealth of vegetables, plus both egg and glass noodles, served over steamed rice, $20). Unlike many styles of American barbecue, where uninspired coleslaw plays second fiddle to the meat, Fikscue’s bright and acidic rujak slaw ($10) combines cabbage, cucumber, and pineapple with peanut sauce — the perfect complement to fatty brisket.

The restaurant’s reputation preceded it — even among people who’d never had the food before. Valkyries season-ticket holder Amy Hu had taken the train from her home in downtown San Jose, arriving well before tip-off to ensure the kitchen didn’t run out. “You have to be like, ‘Do I want to commit two hours to waiting in line?’ Yes. Yes, I do.”

The image shows a plate of rice topped with shredded meat, greens, colorful prawn crackers, chili, and a small cup of sauce, set on printed paper.
The $23 rendang plate includes smoked brisket slow-cooked in coconut milk and Indonesian spices, steamed rice, kale curry, garlic chips, a potato fritter, and a fried egg with sambal. | Source: Chris Behroozian for The Standard

Her enthusiasm wasn’t enough to save the Valkyries, who went on to lose 83-82 against the Los Angeles Sparks. But inside Fikscue, the excitement remained constant. Software engineer Mark Abel sat down with half a pound of ribs, rujak slaw, and a rendang plate — a hefty order, to be sure. He said he’s a big Valkyries fan, especially the shooting guard: “I love Kate Martin.” Abel had never eaten at Fikscue. But he’d been waiting for his wife to arrive at the arena and kept smelling the smoke.

Website
Fikscue
Opening hours
Open during Golden State Valkyries games, May 10 and 12, grand opening TBD
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