After grinding it out for years in San Francisco’s sanity-snuffing restaurant world, it’s not surprising that many of the city’s most established industry folks have treated themselves to homes in the less frenetic wine country. But what is surprising is that most didn’t head for trendy Healdsburg or fancy Yountville. Instead, the place to be is the low-key town of Sonoma — or “Slownoma,” as it’s affectionately called — where the main grocery store has senior days on Tuesdays and the town square has long had an easy-fit forward Chico’s. 

Despite the unfussy environs, at least four prominent SF restaurateurs have bought homes in Sonoma in the past five years. Craig and Annie Stoll, owners of Delfina and Pizzeria Delfina, have a home off the square, with a farmlet where they grow vegetables for their restaurants. Adriano Paganini (Beretta, Wildseed, Flores, The Tailor’s Son, and just about every other restaurant in SF) and his wife have their own little garden and a vineyard where they’re tinkering with making pinot noir. 

Charles Bililies, the founder of Souvla, and his wife, Jen Pelka, moved from their place in the Mission to Sonoma in part because it’s the location of Pelka’s business, Une Femme Wines. And Pete Sittnick, managing partner of Waterbar and Epic Steak, and his wife loved the small-town feel enough that what was initially a pandemic getaway became their main residence. Another bonus: The commute from the town of Sonoma to SF isn’t that far — just under an hour.

Dimitri Vardakastanis, co-owner of Gus’s Community Market, which has five locations in SF, has had ties to Sonoma longer than the others. His father, Konstantinos “Gus” Vardakastanis, who died in a hit-and-run in 2017, bought a home in Sonoma in 2011. “Our house was our father’s home away from home,” Vardakastanis says. “We operate a vineyard up there, and when we’re not juggling work and kids, we go up. It reminds us a lot of him and is a good reason to escape.”

Aside from the 8-month-old Enclos, which garnered a surprise two Michelin stars in June, everyone admits that Sonoma’s restaurant scene isn’t quite up to city speed. But there is plenty of good eating to be had — if you ask the locals. Here are their favorites.

This little farm-to-table restaurant with an on-site bottle shop, located on the town square, tops everyone’s list. Opened in 2020 by former Scribe Winery employees, Valley has “the feel of a little Brooklyn neighborhood restaurant,” says Bililies, adding that he and his wife bring visiting friends for brunch. The eclectic menu — trout with summer succotash, duck with cherries and wild greens — is as tiny as the space, which includes a patio. Craig Stoll gives Valley the ultimate compliment: “This was the first restaurant to elevate the food in Sonoma without being weird and all 1980s about it.” 487 1st St. West, Sonoma

Anyone who drives Highway 12 should make a stop at this seasonal farm stand that sells sweet, delicate-to-the-touch berries grown on 10 acres. “The strawberries are the best in the valley,” says Vardakastanis. “They also have sweet corn, lemon cucumbers, and their jams are wicked. The only kicker is the strawberries are so ripe you have to eat them in a day.” 1120 Watmaugh Road, Sonoma

“Cafe La Haye is a restaurant stuck in time from the mid- to late ’90s, in all of the best ways,” says Bililies. “It’s like a teeny, tiny Zuni — maybe 10 to 12 tables, white tablecloths, servers who have been there forever.” Sittnick is also a fan of the restaurant, which specializes in seasonal California cuisine. “Saul Gropman, who owned it and ran it for many years, just retired and sold it to the employees. They do a really good job. I like it because it’s full of locals, and they support all the farmers.” Bililies adds: “They make a great pork chop.” 140 East Napa St., Sonoma

Located in Boyes Hot Springs, a part of town that has a smattering of Latin markets and taquerias, this bougie — but adorable — Mexican spot, owned by Karen Taylor, draws crowds who gather around bright-green picnic tables under red umbrellas for Swiss chard enchiladas and chicken sopes. Everything is freshly made with stone-ground masa. (El Molino, after all, means “the mill.”) Stoll calls it “the best, best restaurant in all of Sonoma — oh man, I love the seafood cocktail and their fish tacos and their moles. I love how the owner digs deep into Diana Kennedy.” 11 Central Ave., Sonoma

This taco truck, which parks in front of a surf store with a skate ramp across from Sonoma High School, is Craig Stoll’s weekly fast-food stop. “I get two tacos for me — usually carnitas or sometimes cabeza — and one carne asada, hold the tortillas and salsa, that I split between our two dogs. And a Coke in a can,” he says. “We used to have this customer who judged restaurants on price-to-flavor ratio, and at $2 per taco, it’s hard to beat this one.” 1001 Broadway, Sonoma

Everyone in town is loyal to the Sonoma Market. Paganini sings the praises of the butcher counter, as does Craig Stoll, though he has one critique: “The fish is no bueno for the most part, but they have an extensive aged meat selection and four or five sausage producers. If you want beef, there’s prime, choice, there’s Piedmontese stuff.” They also carry a small selection of fruit and vegetables from local farmer Paul’s Produce, including tomatoes and Charentais melons. 500 West Napa St., Sonoma

Sonoma is not only about wine. Vardakastanis recommends this beer garden near the square for its “great selection” of brewed-in-house pale ales and IPAs, as well as collaborations with Santa Rosa-based HenHouse Brewing Company. Plus, the tavern has “perfectly done grilled artichokes and a great Nashville fried chicken sandwich.” Another draw? Free live music. On Sunday, local band The Musers will play “free-range folk” from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. while everyone gathers on the sweeping patio. 691 Broadway, Sonoma

The area’s newest, buzziest restaurant — a little farther afield, in Kenwood — opened in March from the team behind Glen Ellen Star, the beloved Cal-Ital restaurant in the hamlet of Glen Ellen. (“Their pizzas are phenomenal,” says Sittnick.) Bililies compares Stella to San Francisco’s Delfina — “It’s a close comp in look and feel and quality of cuisine, and they have a bar as well” — while Craig Stoll, Mr. Delfina himself, also likens it to a “modern city Italian restaurant.” “It’s got a pretty advanced, hand-pulled mozzarella program,” says Bililies. “The mortadella meatballs are also fantastic.” 9049 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood

Mike Zakowski, otherwise known as “Mike the Baker,” is a one-man pizza show found at the twice-a-week Sonoma farmers markets: Friday mornings and Tuesday nights. He makes naturally leavened bread with 100% organic, freshly milled whole grains. “Mike has an old milk truck from which he tows a little brick oven,” says Bililies. “He sells a series of whole-grain breads and makes awesome pretzels and small pizzas. There’s a veggie one with broccolini, capers, and garlic. You can add sausage. It’s really, really great.” Tuesday farmers market, The Plaza; Friday farmers market, 284 First St. West, Sonoma

Located a little off the beaten path in a residential area, Buck’s is a true IYKYK place. “Pizza, beer, cocktails” is how the straightforward tavern, run by the people behind the popular Lou’s Luncheonette, advertises its holy trinity. “It’s basically just an East Coast, red-sauce kind of place, with wings and meatballs and fried calamari — like the local pizza place you grew up eating at as a kid,” says Bililies. There’s a pool table up front and a big patio in back. “We go and sit at the bar, get maybe a Negroni or a bottle of wine and some wings, and always run into someone we know.” 401 Grove St., Sonoma

“There’s nothing else like this up here,” Bililies says of the salumeria that’s “sort of hiding in plain sight off the square.” Opened six years ago by Andrea Marino, who owned a Michelin-starred restaurant in Piedmont, Ovello has “a small selection of imported Italian stuff like olive oil,” says Bililies, “and he does a Roman-style pizza and focaccia which he bakes and is just incredible. He makes simple sandwiches out of things like mortadella and has a huge salumi program.” 248 W Napa St., Sonoma

At the very least, a summer stroll around the Sonoma square should include a stop at Sign of the Bear, a great cookware store, and ice cream from Sweet Scoops. “It’s a great, independently owned shop,” says Vardakastanis. “Everything is made in-house. I love the butter brickle and salted caramel, and they even get strawberries from Watmaugh.” 401 First St., Sonoma