Bi-Rite’s third market debuts on Polk Street. At 4,000 square feet, it’s the biggest yet

Russian Hill can rejoice. Almost two years after it was announced, a third location of upscale San Francisco grocery store Bi-Rite Market is set to open Thursday on Polk Street. At 4,000 square feet, it’s 50% larger than the 10-year-old Divisadero Street location and twice as big as the 84-year-old original on 18th Street in the Mission.

Known for its deep commitment to Northern California farmers and artisanal producers, Bi-Rite, with its motto of “Creating community through food,” has earned near-fanatical loyalty from customers and staff alike. It is known nationally as a symbol of San Francisco food culture, sustainability — and the best, if pricy, produce.

Although there won’t be a dedicated butcher counter, the Polk Street location will look much like the other two Bi-Rites, only with more breathing room in the aisles, skylights, and a flower section. Founding partner Sam Mogannam says customers will be “assaulted by the beauty.” 

The space had been the home of Real Food Company, which was a pioneering grocer when it opened in 1976. Mogannam, who worked with Real Food’s owners early in his career as a chef, recalls, “I used to shop here when I lived in the neighborhood. There were very few stores where you could go and get really great produce, and this was one.” The store’s departure left something of a grocery desert on this part of Polk Street. 

Expansion often indicates that venture capital money is involved, but Mogannam cherishes his independence. “We’re committed to not taking outside investment so that we can be in control of all our decisions,” he said. “That way, we don’t have to start diminishing the standards, which happens so frequently with most companies.”

This is about the harshest criticism anyone will hear from the relentlessly upbeat Mogannam, who has the Arabic transliteration of Bi-Rite’s guiding principles — love, passion, and integrity — tattooed on his forearm. Still, the company, a registered B Corp. that employs more than 300 people, may double in size in the next six years. “We’re now on our 2030 vision, which says, you know, two to three more markets in the Bay Area,” Mogannam said. He won’t reveal where he’s looking, although in the past he has mused about an Inner Sunset location.

Running the company means spending little time in the kitchen, something Mogannam misses. However, there’s plenty of time to sample what’s in season — like ripe, candy-striped figs from Knoll Farms in Brentwood. “Wrinkly, cracked things are, without question, the best, because they burst from the sugar,” he said. “I tore it open to this lovely, ruby-red, lusty-yellow interior. Like, where have you been all my life?”