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For one night, SF’s hottest club was a bagel shop

A lively crowd smiles and claps around a performer with colorful, curly hair and vibrant outfit, in a cozy room with shelves of records and bottles.
Drag artist Girlfriend With Cookie performs at the Laundromat’s second anniversary party. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard

The Laundromat has no business being this cool. It’s a bagel shop on weekday mornings and a pizza place with natural wine at night. It’s out in the Avenues in what should be a sleepy part of the Richmond.

And yet. 

The most in-the-know people I know call it their go-to spot. The bartender dripping in vintage pieces, the impeccably dressed New York transplant who runs a sustainable clothing company, my hot friend in haute couture who makes frames for MoMA — these are the people who make the Laundromat such a scene. Wait times for dinner can stretch to two hours. 

I needed to know what all the fuss was about, so Sunday I gathered a group and set out for the Laundromat’s second-anniversary party, which I’d heard about via, naturally, an Instagram post. 

Two people stand at night near a sign for "The Laundromat SF," eating and drinking; one is holding a food basket, the other a beer. Another person is in the background.
The party floods out the door and onto the sidewalk. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard
A woman in a bright blue faux fur coat smiles as she takes a photo with her phone. The background shows a bar setting with bottles on shelves.
Taylor Hamilton and her big blue coat. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard

Illuminated by the neon glow of the Balboa Theatre’s marquee, gaggles of hipsters and beautiful young families flooded Balboa Street outside the restaurant. The entire block was activated — an unexpected hot spot in an otherwise residential enclave. 

Inside, a bunch of my favorite people had gotten the memo, too. There was the long-haired barista from whom I buy coffee in the Mission; a tattoo artist I’d met years ago, fireside at Woods; a bunch of photographers and artists, including the MoMA framer, who had some of her pieces on the walls.

A lively party scene shows a person in a colorful dress reaching for a hanging lantern, surrounded by smiling guests and balloons in a warmly lit room.
Drag queen Mary Vice captures the room with a Chappell Roan number. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard
A lively bar scene with people laughing, holding drinks, and capturing moments. Shelves filled with records and bottles are seen in the background.
Co-owner Jenna O’Connell, center, enjoys the night with friends. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard

Also in attendance: dogs, annoyingly well-dressed babies, mustached skater boys, people who look good in baggy jeans, and drag queens, whose performances brought true delight to the faces of all of the above.

The accessories were suitably eclectic and homespun. Muni and SF Library totes wildly outnumbered anything fast-fashion. When I donned a Laundromat-branded camo cap, someone in the crowd exclaimed, “That’s the hottest hat in town!” I counted more than one flash of a film camera. An airbrush artist created custom pieces in one corner; a group of friends played a not-so-serious game of cards in another. Outside, cigarette and vape smoke mingled with the smell of grilled choripan hot dogs.

People are playing cards at a wooden table, laughing and enjoying themselves. There's a bottle and some drinks on the table, and the atmosphere is relaxed and fun.
A not-so-serious game of cards. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard
A crowd is gathered at a doorway. A man with long hair carries a corgi in a backpack, drawing smiles from those around him. Balloons and a birthday banner are visible.
This dog knows how cute it is. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard
A woman is humorously trying to eat a hot dog being held by another person, while several people sit around them in a lively, playful atmosphere.
Carmen Romero Salinero samples a hot dog from the on-site Yo También pop-up. | Source: Camille Cohen for The Standard

It seemed like almost everyone at the party had a connection to the city’s drinking and dining scene. The camo hat said not just that I was in-the-know but that I was a supporter. People had come out to celebrate the hard work of food industry professionals and a trendy place that brings life and energy to the Outerlands.

As the dance floor emptied out, my photos got blurrier. Holding half-drunk bottles of natural wine by the necks, friends new and old waved goodbye as my partner and I grabbed an Uber home. We promised ourselves we would come back. Maybe on a normal night. Maybe in the morning for bagels.

A woman with reddish hair, smiling, holding a drink, stands in a doorway at a lively bar. People in the background are socializing under warm, spherical lights.
The Standard's Camille Cohen shows off her cool new Laundromat hat, hanging demurely from her thrifted Gucci bag. | Source: Alfonso Gonzalez Luis for The Standard