Upon settling in San Francisco, Helene realized that Americans couldn’t resist noodles doused in cream, and she decided to put an ever-so-slightly healthy spin on things by adding garlic. Today, these heavenly, butter-laden noodles are the An family’s chef-d’oeuvre, and most diners pair the dish with whole roasted Dungeness crab or grilled and butterflied prawns.
The recipe for garlic noodles remains a closely guarded An family secret. Only members of the family are allowed to make the dish, and it’s prepared in what the Ans call their “secret kitchen”—a clandestine corner back-of-house. Why such strict privacy? For one, the experience of fleeing her homeland taught Helene to be protective.
“My mom lost everything two or three times in her life,” her daughter Monique told KQED in 2021. “She said you can lose everything but your knowledge. That’s kind of her gift to us.”