Other cultural mashups abound. Take the Zang Madame ($13), a hybrid of a croque madame and a croissant with a name that nods to the latter’s inventor, August Zang. Traditionally, a croque madame fuses ham, Gruyère, béchamel sauce, and a fried egg. But Tatarstan is a Muslim region, so ham is replaced with crisped kalbaza, a cold cut made from veal. “All of our proteins are halal,” said Dumesnil, who, although ethnically Tatar, was born in Mexico City.
Kalbaza — not to be confused with kielbasa, the Polish sausage — becomes crispy when fried, giving the Zang Madame a little bite. To that, Dumesnil piles on a Havarti-like cheese, fresh herbs, Maldon salt, black pepper, a fried egg, and an alternative to béchamel made from chicken broth, milk, and a spice blend he won’t reveal. “Dacha flavors,” he describes it, referring to the country vacation homes of wealthy Russian urbanites. “There’s this very earthy kind of feel. You know you’re eating something from the country.”
It’s a very satisfying breakfast sandwich — gooey but not quite a gut-buster. Pair it with a $6 cup of butter coffee — also known as “bulletproof,” a sugar-free version that incorporates butter or coconut oil.