A burger is not just a burger. There are the greasy but good grime-time versions inhaled quickly. And there are the cloth-napkin affairs at a fancy restaurant bar, cocktail in hand. Sometimes, depending on how East Coast you are, it’s a patty melt. And prices can range wildly.
When it comes to picking a favorite, our city’s chefs and other restaurant industry pros do not appear to land on one side or the other of the burger spectrum. However, there are some consensus favorites among the 12 experts surveyed by The Standard.
Several noted Beep’s Burgers, which has been slinging its all-American offerings on Ocean Avenue since 1962, as well as Wes Burger, a new-school spot that opened in 2016 but is clearly selling nostalgia.
But truly, why choose a side? Our vote is to put on your stretchy pants and make your way to all of them.
Lawrence Lai, co-owner, Craftsman and Wolves
Favorite burger: Beep’s Burgers, 1051 Ocean Ave., Ingleside ($12.25)
At this old-school, drive-up institution named for the Space Age beep of a satellite, the burgers, made with Angus beef, are what Lai calls “purist” — meaning nothing but the special sauce, lettuce, and tomato, with pickles and onions upon request. “It feels frozen in time here. When I want a good ol’ cheeseburger that is charred just right, Beep’s is the place.”
Francis Ang, chef-owner, Abacá
Favorite burger: Nopa, 560 Divisadero St., Alamo Square ($29)
“Nopa’s burger is just pure. It’s got a thick patty that’s cooked on the wood-fire grill, so it’s just the no-fuss taste of beef — and obviously, you have to get a cocktail. I order it with everything on it, medium rare. I also love [smashburger pop-up] Smish Smash. Their pho burger is amazing.”
Paul Einbund, owner, the Morris
Favorite burger: Zuni Café, 1658 Market St., Hayes Valley ($22)
“Since Nopa and Wes Burger are taken, Zuni is my pick. The burger is about good meat and fresh vibrant flavors. Their zucchini pickle is unique and has a real zing. Also, it’s served on house-made focaccia, which allows it to stand out from the pack.”
Allie Tong, influencer, Allie Eats
Favorite burger: Roam, multiple San Francisco locations ($15)
“I’m pescatarian, so I don’t eat meat, but the veggie burger from Roam is the best veggie patty I’ve ever had. I’ve been going for over a decade. It’s made with quinoa, black beans, brown rice, beets, and dates, so it also has a touch of sweetness. You can choose a style of preparation, and I get the Tejano or Sunny Side.”
Favorite burger: Hillstone, 1800 Montgomery St., Fisherman’s Wharf ($28)
“Hillstone — despite being a chain — is known for its service, and it has a great atmosphere, so it’s a good place to sit at the bar for a burger. It’s a good, simple, clean burger. They make the bun, and they grind the meat every day. You just know you’re going to get something solid and consistent.”
Suzette Gresham, chef-owner, Acquerello
Favorite burger: In-N-Out Burger, 333 Jefferson St., Fisherman’s Wharf ($7.50)
Just because you’re a fine-dining chef doesn’t mean you don’t have low-level cravings. “Sometimes if we can get done [at the restaurant] early enough, we know the In-N-Out down by Fisherman’s Wharf is open late. For me, it’s quick and it’s good and it’s consistent. I always order it ‘protein style,’ so no bun — I call it salad in a wrapper. I like all the cold condiments on the hot burger, so I get onions, pickles, tomatoes, and extra peppers.”
Tony Cervone, chef-partner, Souvla
Favorite burger: Wes Burger, 2240 Mission St., Mission ($9)
“The smashburger here is next level — a true kind of smash, crispy and oozing with flavor. Every bite is a special mouthful. I just get it as is” — which means a 3-ounce patty on a Martin’s bun with special sauce, pickle, American cheese, and red onion. “I’m not a big modifier guy. If it’s normal me, I’m going single. If I’m hungry me, I get a double.”
Gillian Shaw Lundgren, owner, Black Jet Baking Co.
Favorite burger: Wiz Burgers Drive-In, 700 South Van Ness Ave., Mission ($6.25)
The cheapest of the bunch, “the patty melts at Wiz Burgers pass the East Coast test,” says Lundgren, a Massachusetts native. “They actually use rye bread — sometimes people don’t, which is sacrilege. It has a nice, solid griddled onion. I just love them.”
Michael Rosenthal, chef de cuisine, La Société Bar & Café
Favorite burger: Marlowe, 500 Brannan St., SoMa ($25)
“I love the Marlowe burger. I am a total horseradish junkie, and the horseradish aioli they put on sings my name every time I pass by the restaurant. Perfect amount of kick!”
Ryan Pollnow, co-chef, Flour + Water
Favorite burger: True Laurel, 753 Alabama St., Mission ($18)
“With everything at True Laurel, the word that comes to mind is ‘thoughtful,’ and the patty melt here is the purest form. Part of their beef mix is dry-aged, and they also use beef fat to toast the pain de mie, so you’re getting layers of flavor. Then they put a fair amount of pickles, so that’s cutting through all the beef and melted cheese.”
Sophie Smith, pastry chef and owner, Butter & Crumble
Favorite burger: Wayfare Tavern, 558 Sacramento St., Union Square ($25)
“I used to live in the Marina, so my friends and I would go to Causwells all the time when we had the craving for a smashburger. But if I want a date night, Wayfare Tavern’s has bacon and brie and a brioche bun — it’s totally luxurious and delicious.”
Daniel Evers, chef-owner, Itria
Favorite burger: ABV, 3174 16th St., Mission ($17)
“When you cut it in half, it’s the juiciest burger I’ve seen, but it’s got good integrity. It doesn’t get overly soggy,” Evers says of the bar’s classic cheeseburger. “Shredded lettuce and good pickles are the highlights for me, plus there’s thinly sliced onions, cheese, and house special sauce. They accentuate the patty without overpowering it. Grab yourself a Gin & Celery [cocktail] to go alongside.”