Something sugary this way comes. In addition to the sudden ubiquity of pumpkin spice, spooky decor and early sunsets, October announces its arrival with fun-size servings of high fructose corn syrup.
Luckily, San Francisco’s newest bakers and confectioners can offer us something a bit more elevated than the office candy bowl. This Saturday, Berkeley’s Pie Society pops up at the posh Mission District wine shop and market Dolores Deluxe.
We’ve also got the scoop on Humphry Slocombe’s new fall flavor, Bee Positive, which was inspired by drag icon Peaches Christ’s theatrical haunted house at the Old Mint. If that’s not enough, Le Marais Bakery is now serving buckwheat crepes through a window in the back of its Castro bistro.
On the savory side of things, Yuka Ioroi relocated her Japanese breakfast and affordable prix fixe dinner to a handsome corner in North Beach. And there’s even more ajitsuke tamago, or soft-yolk egg, at a new spot called Fuku Ramen, just in time for the chillier autumn nights.
Trick & Treat
2790 Harrison St. | 1 Ferry Building
(415) 766-4431 | (415) 362-6571
Local scoop shop Humphry Slocombe decided to think outside the pumpkin with this month’s special flavor. Inspired by drag legend Peaches Christ’s theatrical spooktacular, The Summoning, “Bee Positive” is a smooth churn of blood orange juice—get it?—and raw blackberry honey. Also new to the ice cream parlor this week is a pumpkin galette flavor topped with a caramel swirl.
New Roots in North Beach
401 Columbus Ave.
While its former Outer Richmond neighbors were sad to see it go, North Beach diners have been eagerly anticipating the arrival of Cassava. The 10-year-old New American eatery known for its Japanese breakfast and a prix fixe menu that won’t break the bank has completed its crosstown move and is slated to reopen on Columbus Avenue on Wednesday, Oct. 12. The new navy blue and white-painted digs are much roomier, which will give co-owner Yuka Ioroi’s team the space they need to grill large-format steaks and add more vintages to the wine cellar.
Earlier in the week, Ramzi Budayr, formerly of Bernal Heights’ Marlena, unveiled the new incarnation of Dolores Deluxe, an upscale wine shop and market situated within a hundred-year-old corner store. Partnering with Los Angeles natural wine bar owner Zach Negin, the modern emporium offers organic wines and other sundries, including “grandma style” pies from Berkeley’s Pie Society, which will pop up at Dolores Deluxe every Saturday. Chef Angela Pinkerton dabbles in ambitious flavor combinations, like passion fruit bay leaf meringue and roasted corn custard.
2110 Clement St.
With an unassuming storefront bearing little more than a red cloth sign, Fuku Ramen soft-opened in the Richmond last month. The shop specializes in tonkotsu style ramen—a rich pork broth with noodles, soft-yolk eggs and pork belly—originating in Southern Japan. At Fuku, you can opt for the works and add red and black garlic. We strongly recommend starting with their takoyaki, or crispy octopus balls.
Sucrées ou Salées?
Less than a year after Patrick Ascaso and Joanna Pulcini-Ascaso premiered their creperie at the Ferry Building, Castro Francophiles are now getting the same sweet treatment. This week, the staff at Le Marais Bakery began passing buckwheat crêpes through a pale blue shuttered window behind the bakery and bistro. Though the crêpe menu is to-go, Le Marais will continue to serve all-day breakfast inside. The Standard staff pick has got to be the ultra-decadent crêpe complète, served with comté, gruyère and wet-cured ham, a sunny-side up egg folded into the center.
Sarah Holtz can be reached at [email protected]